Few towns in New York can claim the low-key, 19th-century elegance of little-known Athens. Situated just north of the Rip Van Winkle Bridge on the west side of the Hudson, this 200-year-old former ferry town has been undergoing a quiet renaissance of late.

Houses with historic character are being renovated and touched up; retail shops are moving back into the center of town; cozy new restaurants are opening up. And yet, despite all the changes, Athens is not losing any of its centuries-old appeal.

Part of the appeal of this place lies in its remarkable architecture and history. Many of the homes here are classic examples of the Greek Revival style. Others like the yellow-brick Van Loon House on the hill as you come into town are landmarks of a vanished opulence. So too the smaller Dimmick House that retains its original colonial charm.

At one time Athens was slated to be the capital of New York State. You can still see some of the plats which were earmarked to house the Capitol building. Other buildings evoke a more Belle-Epoque splendor with mansard roofs and stylish decoration.

Some of the older buildings have been untouched by time which gives Athens an authenticity lacking in many other rivertowns in the area. The stately hotel and restaurant Stewart House (seen below) has recently been renovated and now is open seven days a week.

Chef Adam Monteverde has brought a new flavor to the riverside tavern.  Check out the link on the right to its website. The hotel has a lot of colorful history and some of the vintage photographs are a lot of fun.

The dining room has been given a makeover with stylish retro murals by noted artist Nora Johnson.

During the summer, locals dine outside on the waterfront, where the Stewart House keeps a terrace bar. Just down the block on River Street is Ursula’s Riverside Diner where locals drop by each day to discuss the weather or the latest town meeting. It’s a great place for lunch and on nice days you can eat outside.

Second Street, on which I live, was once the Main Street filled with shops and businesses. Some of them remain, including a charming laundromat, the Athens Opera House (which is now a billiards hall and meeting space), and Cameo’s restaurant, which draws customers from miles around.

One of my favorite new spaces is Yoga Monkey, a dynamic yet down-to-earth yoga studio.

Athens was best known for its ferry which crossed the river to the city of Hudson in Columbia County. Fans of Spielberg’s recent film, War of the Worlds, will recall that part of the movie was filmed here on the riverfront. From what I understand, they had to use lightweight cars on the ferry since the river here is not as deep as it used to be, and hasn’t been dredged in years.

The ferry gradually stopped operating after the Rip Van Winkle bridge was built. But the local townspeople have built a charming riverside park that is one of the few on the Hudson that is easily accessible by walking and driving.

Sitting on a bench, looking out over the river, gazing at the landmark lighthouse, one feels a sense of peace and contentment, and a feeling that time has stood still.

In short, Athens has my name written all over it.